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| Leh City Tour Guide - Jammu and Kashmir |
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Leh Facts:
• Area 380 sq. km
• Population (1991) 192967
• Altitude 5205 m above sea level
• Languages Hindi, English, Ladhaki and Urdu
• Best Time to Visit April – September
• STD Code 01982 |
As you approach Leh for the first time, via the sloping sweep of dust and pebbles that divide it from the floor of the Indus Valley, you'll have little difficulty imagining how the old trans-Himalayan traders must have felt as they plodded in on the caravan routes from Yarkhand and Tibet: a mixture of relief at having crossed the mountains in one piece, and anticipation of a relaxing spell in one of central's Asia most scenic and atmospheric towns. Spilling out of a side valley that tapers north towards eroded snow-capped peaks, the Ladakhi capital sprawls from the foot of a ruined Tibetan-style palace - a maze of mud brick and concrete flanked on by cream coloured desert and on the other by a swathe of lush irrigated farmland.
History
Leh only became regional capital in the 17th century, when Sengge Namgyal shifted his court here from Shey, 15km southeast, to be closer to the head of the Khardung La-Karakoram corridor into China. The move paid off: within a generation the town had blossomed into one of the busiest markets on the Silk road. During the 1920s and 1930s, the broad bazaar that still forms its heart received more than a dozen pony - and camel-trains each day. Leh's prosperity managed mainly by the Sunni Muslim merchants, whose descendants live in its labyrinthine old quarters, came to an abrupt end with the closure of the Chinese border in the 1950s. Only after the Indo-Pak wars of 1965 and 1971, when India rediscovered the hitherto forgotten capital's strategic value, did its fortunes begin to look up.
Undoubtedly the most radical shake-up, however ensued from the Indian government's decision in 1974 to foreign tourists. From the start, Leh bore the brunt of the annual invasion, as busloads of backpackers poured up the road from Srinagar. Twenty or so years on, though the main approach is now via Himachal Pradesh rather than Kashmir, the summer influx shows no sign of abating. Leh has doubled in size and is a far cry from the stroll shoulder to shoulder down its main street, most of whose old-style outfitters and provision stores have been squeezed out by Kashmiri handicraft shops, art emporiums and Tibetan restaurants. A rapid increase in the number of Kashmiri traders, who have little choice but to seek business outside Kashmir, has in recent years led to unrest in Leh's bazaar, the first communal violence ever seen in normally peaceful Ladakh. |
How to get there
Air
Leh is connected by an Indian Airlines service that comes in to the airport 5kms from town on the Srinagar highway. Foreigners have to pay a US $10 entry fee. From the airport there are shuttle bus services and shared jeep-taxis to town. Weather conditions can be erratic in Leh and flights get cancelled at short notice. Check before travelling and book well in advance, since flights are usually full.
Rail
The nearest railhead is Jammu (690 km), which is linked to the rest of the country by express trains.
Road
Leh is connected by two major highway routes, one from Manali and the other coming up from Srinagar. Both traverse treacherous mountain routes and high passes, many times getting blocked due to landslides. The Leh-Srinagar road runs close to the border with Pakistan and is often blocked by the army. The road connection to Leh is open only in the summer months from mid-June till end of September. You can do the route either by private cars and jeeps or by the tourist buses that run from Manali. Buses come in to the town bus stand, close to the main bazaar and most of the hotels.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Leh is from middle of May till end of September. However the remote trek routes open up only by June. Winters are incredibly cold and you could get completely cut off.
Dining Out
Though most hotels have restaurants, there are enough places to eat out in town. The dominant food is Tibetan dishes, most commonly momos with meat or vegetable stuffings, thukpa, made from fresh pasta strips and shredded meat and vegetables, besides others. There are also several cake and pastry shops selling fresh breads. There are a few bars along the fort road, besides where you can get a bottle of beer or two.
Nightlife
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Shopping
The main bazaar gets full with souvenir shops and boutiques during peak tourist season. Though mostly selling Ladakhi and Tibetan handicrafts, the shops are largely owned by Kashmiri traders. There is also a cluster of shops selling carpets, handicrafts and curios from the Kashmir valley. Most shops are highly priced and a lot of bargaining is called for. The local Ladakhi traders ask more reasonable prices. Souvenirs on sale include local household items like the tea and chang vessels, cups, butter churns, knitted carpets with Tibetan design, jewellery, semi-precious stones like turquoise, coral, prayer flags, musical instruments, and dance masks. You can also buy Ladakhi traditional dresses, including the exquisite and expensive pirakh (women’s headdress) in addition to Kashmiri shawls.
Tourist Offices
Dy. Director Tourism, Leh -(Ladakh) 194101 Tel: 01982-252297, 252095
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